Tattoos and Skin Health

Tattoos and Skin Health

by Dr. Claudia Aguirre

Tattooing is as ancient as modern man. These decorative marks have been found in cavemen and mummies, spanning many different cultures worldwide. The first modern tattooing machine was modeled after Thomas Edison’s engraving machine and ran on electricity. Today, over 60 million Americans have at least one tattoo – that means one out of every 5 people have gotten inked at some point in life. In this day and age, as tattoos are not taboo anymore, we must focus on caring for them and understanding their impact on skin health.
First, how do they work? Tattoos inject dye into the skin using small needles that puncture skin at a frequency of 50-3000 times per minute. The needles penetrate past the epidermis into the underlying dermis, leaving behind pigment in the entire area. The living dermis is composed of collagen fibers, nerves, sweat glands, sebaceous glands, blood vessels and basically everything that keeps skin connected to the rest of the body. Every time the needle penetrates, it causes a wound in the skin and alerts the body to begin the inflammatory process- the skin’s method to deal with danger. Cells of the immune system travel to the wound site and begin repairing the skin. These very cells are the reason tattoos are permanent. Specialized cells called macrophages virtually ‘eat’ the invading material in an effort to clean up the inflammatory mess. As these cells travel through the blood vessels, some of them are carried back, with a belly full of dye, into the lymph nodes while others remain in the dermis. Because macrophages don't have a way of dissolving and disposing of the pigment, it remains in the dermis, where they are visible through the skin.
Initially, the ink is deposited in both epidermis and dermis, but as skin heals, the damaged epidermal cells are shed and replaced by new, dye-free cells. This is why the color may look less deep and vibrant as when all the cells carry the dye in the initial wound. It’s important to remember that freshly tattooed skin is wounded- and skin care services must not be performed in this area until fully healed. During this time, skin can be itchy, red, inflamed and sensitive, with a high risk of infection. Healing time can range, depending on the individual, from weeks to months. Because tattooing causes trauma to the skin, some individuals may want to think twice before going under the needle. It can trigger or worsen conditions like Psoriasis, and skin may take longer to heal in those with autoimmune disorders or taking immunosuppressive medication. Other considerations include the pigment type and equipment sterility. Some pigments, especially red, can be phototoxic in some people, resulting in skin irritation when exposed to sunlight. Any abnormal reactions should always be checked by a physician.
How can you prepare for getting inked? Chronic sun damage can degrade collagen and increase elastin, as in solar elastosis. This means skin is thickened, dry and wrinkled – not exactly the perfect canvas for artwork. So sun protection is crucial before – and after tattooing. You may also want to keep skin healthy and hydrated by exfoliating regularly and keeping the barrier intact. Caring for tattooed skin doesn’t have to be complicated. With time, the colors will fade, as the cells renew themselves, but the epidermis can also become dull and dry when not properly cared for. So using enzymes, AHAs, and hydrating serums and moisturizers will keep the epidermis smooth and clear, revealing the bright pigments below. Perhaps the best way to protect your tattooed skin is to protect it from UV damage. Broad-spectrum UV protection and proper skin care on a daily basis will ensure that your investment remains bright and intact.

What is a Sun Burn?

How many of you have ever experienced a sunburn? I’m guessing that almost all of us have, with an embarrassing blush! Yes, we know it’s wrong and we kick ourselves when we are wincing with pain as we try to dress. But maybe if we truly understood what is happening to our skin as we nonchalantly lay in the sun for that extra 10 minutes, we wouldn’t be so lax.

A sunburn is the skin’s response to extreme ultraviolet (UV) exposure and indicates severe damage. In as little as 10 minutes of intense UV exposure, the skin sets into motion a system of defense against this enemy. The first indication of damage is redness. This is the body’s inflammatory response in situations requiring repair and is a result of dilating blood vessels. The skin will then start to lose moisture and hydration, which will be apparent with a feeling of tightness. Slowly, skin cells will start to thicken and melanin pigment will be produced (tanning) in an attempt to stop the UV rays from penetrating through to the deeper layers and damaging the DNA of the cells. When the skin is exposed to high levels of sunlight this may result in hypo or hyperpigmentation which appears as irregular light or dark patches. The body is excellent at coping with minimal amounts of damage, but if exposure is greater than the body’s ability to repair and mop up, more serious consequences may result. If DNA is damaged and its repair mechanisms are inhibited, skin cancer may occur.


Why Does the Skin Peel?
 Peeling after a sunburn is your body’s way of getting rid of the damaged cells that are at risk of “losing control” and becoming cancerous. Due to this danger, all damaged cells are instructed to commit suicide by repair mechanisms within these cells. This mass suicide of cells results in whole layers of damaged skin peeling off, to be replaced by other cells underneath those layers.

I Have a Sunburn, What Should I Do Now?
 First of all, you should take care of the cause of your problem: get out of the sun immediately. Drink plenty of water as you may be dehydrated. If skin is severely blistered, seek medical help. Otherwise it is important to take down the inflammation and try to reduce damage to the deeper layers of your skin.
 Take a cool bath (no products added) and then blot skin dry. Avoid greasy creams, which prevent the skin from cooling and may make the situation worse. Rather, apply generously a soothing after-sun gel to red areas and then stay out of the sun and the heat. Look for ingredients such as Clove, Liquorice, Lavender, Cucumber and Yucca to reduce irritation, pain and redness. Also look out for an incredible ingredient called Japanese Alder to accelerate the repair of UV induced DNA damage. Couple this with ingredients such as Algae and Hyaluronic Acid to rehydrate the skin and you should be well on your way to a calmer skin.

And no, it is not then ok to go out into the sun the next day for another blast! Remember, your skin is still trying to heal and so must be kept out of direct sunlight for a few days. Keep in mind, the skin is a great record keeper and even with a great after-sun product, irreparable damage may have occurred in the form of premature aging or skin cancer that may only reveal itself later. Think twice next time you decide “just another ten minutes;” your immune system is listening!

What are stretch marks and how do we get them?

As temperatures rise and summer vacations get booked our attention shifts to our body. The prospect of showing a lot more skin and getting into that cute floral two piece can bring on mixed emotions, from extreme anxiety to a healthy dose of motivation to sign up for exercise class. But while we know how to flatten tummies and perk up our glutes, solutions for treating and preventing stretch marks may remain a mystery.

What are Stretch Marks and Why do We Get Them?

Affecting as many as 90% of women stretch marks are a form of scarring that occur in the dermis as a result of collagen and elastin fibers being unable to form to keep rapidly growing skin taut. This creates a lack of supportive material, as the skin is stretched and leads to dermal and epidermal tearing. Appendages like hair follicles, sweat glands and other structures are absent in areas affected by stretch marks.

Stretch marks typically appear after rapid weight gain or loss, and the most common sites include the breasts, buttocks, thighs and lateral abdomen. They are most common during pregnancy and the teen years, when growth spurts and increased levels of steroid hormones cause substantial changes throughout the body. Stretch marks can also be brought on by weight lifting and over use of steroids like cortisone, which thins the skin and connective tissues, making it susceptible to tears. Like cellulite, there are hormonal and genetic factors, as some people are more prone than others. If your mother had them then it’s likely that you will have them too.

Stretch marks are, sadly, not easy to treat. Once they have passed the initial stage of appearing pink, red or purple, to the later stage of looking white or silver with deeper indentations, they are much more challenging. However they can be prevented to some degree which is good news.

Tips to Avoid Stretch Marks:

• Avoid rapid weight gain and loss.

• For best results treat stretch marks when they first appear pink and are early in development.

• Moisturize 3-4 times a day to help the skin to become more pliant, hydrated and better able to stretch. Look for skin products that contain Vitamin E, Cocoa Butter, Shea Butter, Omega 3s, Wheat Germ Oil, Gamma Linoleic Acid and Hylauronic Acid. Massage into breasts, belly, hips, and buttocks.

• Post pregnancy, or for non-pregnant clients, ingredients like Retinol, Lactic Acid, derivatives of Vitamin C (i.e. Ascorbic Acid and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) and protein boosting peptides can also help repair stretch marks.

• Zinc and Vitamin E supplements are recommended by some doctors and health practitioners.

• Laser resurfacing and fractional lasers, when combined with Retinoic Acid, are commonly used by dermatologists to treat and remove stretch marks, though there are no guarantees that they will be removed completely.

Remember it’s our imperfections that make us unique, and a great swimsuit, fabulous sunhat and confident stride go along way!

What is Microdermabrasion?

Are you looking for a non-surgical way to freshen and rejuvenate the skin on your face?  Microdermabrasion, also know as microderm, is one of the easiest and most effective anti-aging treatments you can get.  Its benefits are many: microderm softens fine lines and wrinkles, helps to smooth coarsely textured skin, decreases the appearance of scarring, decreases pore size, and reduces superficial hyper-pigmentation, also known as age spots.  

Microdermabrasion also makes it easier for high-tech skin care products to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and help build collagen, which gives skin its youthful appearance.

Microderm treatments make use of a minimally abrasive instrument to gently sand the skin.  Imagine a very fine sand blaster and you will get the picture of how it works.  It uses microparticles to slough off the top layer of your skin and stimulate new skin growth.  This technique also helps to thicken collagen, which results in a younger looking complexion.  Collagen is a protein in your skin that is abundant when you are a child and makes skin appear taut and smooth.  Collagen production declines as we age, resulting in looser, uneven skin.

Microdermabrasion can achieve dramatic results, but it is highly dependent on the skill of the esthetician.  In general, it is best if you get it from an esthetician you already know and trust.

There is almost no discomfort, you will not need a topical or local anesthetic and there is no recovery or down time.

Exfoliating Do's and Don'ts

Now’s the perfect time to incorporate an exfoliant into your skin care regimen if you haven’t already because the seasons aren’t the only thing that’s transitioning. For example, you might have struggled with dryness on your cheeks around Christmas, but come April Fools’ your T-zone is an oil slick. And then there are those days in between when you never know what you’re going to wake up to. Nevertheless, one thing that remains constant is the need to remove dead skin cells which tend to build up during the colder months. The next time you whip out your loofah or facial scrub, remember these tips: DON’T scrub too hard or you risk breaking the skin. DON’T exfoliate immediately after waxing or after a chemical peel. DO pick an exfoliant that’s appropriate for your skin type and the area you are targeting. Scrubbing your face? Use a wash with micro-beads for sensitive skin. Scrubbing your body? Salt and sugar combined with oils nurture rough spots like elbows and knees. And only break out the pumice stone if you’re targeting your feet. DO use sunscreen after as skin can be more sensitive to UV exposure. DO listen to your skin. If it’s dry, irritated, red, sunburned, or broken, skip the scrub. DO use Dermalogica's Daily Microfoliant.

5 Things You Are Doing To Damage Your Hair

Cold weather, dry air and harsh winds can wreck havoc on hair, particularly if you have dry hair to begin with. While you can't control the weather, there are some things you may be doing that cause damage. And while some are obvious, you may be surprised by others. Here are a few tips on how to reduce minimize damage and keep hair healthy looking all year long.

Frequent Washing - Yes, washing your hair is damaging. Even just getting hair wet can lead to more breakage! When hair becomes wet, the shaft swells, resulting in hair that is more elastic and easier to break. In addition, shampoos can sometimes work too well, removing the oils your hair naturally produces resulting in hair that looks dull and dry.
Solution: Wash you hair less. Dry shampoos are a good option for spot treating on those in-between days. If you must wash daily, use a mild shampoo (avoid products labeled as deep cleansing or clarifying) and focus on the roots where hair is more oily and generally has more product buildup.
Brushing Wet Hair - As previously mentioned, wet hair is more susceptible to damage than dry hair. Wet hair is more elastic and more likely to break. Even brushing dry hair excessively is damaging since brushes and combs can snap or break hair.
Solution: Be gentle with wet hair. Use your fingers or a wide tooth comb to remove tangles.
Towel Drying - Yep, towels can damage your hair. Have I mentioned that wet hair is more susceptible to damage? Even rubbing hair with a towel can rough up the cuticle (outer layer of the hair), causing it to look frizzy or fluffy and potentially lead to more breakage.
Solution: Blot your hair with a towel instead of rubbing it to remove moisture. Also, investing in a super-absorbent towel may be a good idea, especially if you have really thick hair.
Blow Drying - No surprise here, heat causes damage. Blow drying causes a "flash drying" effect that not only removes the surface moisture but also removes water that is bound to the hair, which is called water of hydration. The effect of this flash drying is that the cuticles become dry, rigid and brittle. When the hair flexes, the pressure causes the cuticles to crack. Combing hair with this degree of cuticle cracking causes significant breakage.
Solution: Ideally, don't blow dry your hair. Of course, this isn't a realistic option for many women (including me!). To help mitigate some of the damage try using a heat-protector spray or leave-in conditioner containing glycerin and propylene glycol because these ingredients reduce water evaporation. Additionally, use the low heat option on your dryer to further minimize damage.
Flat Irons/Curling Irons - These type of appliances can damage your hair in a different way than blow dryers. Ironing hair can cause two different types of damage, depending on whether the hair is ironed dry or wet. Ironing dry hair causes cracking along the edges of the cuticles, which can lead to chipping. Ironing wet hair causes the moisture to burst out in little steam explosions. This causes a bubbling and buckling of the cuticle that appear as tiny hair blisters under magnification. Both types of damage can lead to breakage and split ends.
Solution: Iron damage can be reduced by using conditioners formulated with ingredients like cetrimonium chloride. Exposing hair to heat in the presence of such a conditioning agent can increase the strength of the hair, making it harder to break. Products labeled specifically to protect against heat are a good option. Of course, not using an iron is the best solution.
Bottom Line
While it is nearly impossible to prevent all types of hair damage, there are a few simple solutions that can keep your hair looking and feeling healthier without sacrificing your beloved blow dryer!

Why You Should Splurge on Foundation

Let’s face it fellow beauty junkies: times are tough. And unless you’re bringing in a paycheck the size of a reality star’s it’s likely that snagging every beauty product you covet is out of the question. So how do you still look stylish without running out of dollars and cents? Well it all comes down to knowing what’s worth the splurge and that is definitely foundation. Quality foundation is—you guessed it—the foundation of every great look Everyone knows all it takes is one bad blemish to draw attention from your painstakingly-drawn cat eyes to that red cluster along your jaw line. And that’s where foundation comes in. It enhances your natural complexion, covers up any imperfection, and creates a flawless base to build customized looks. Think about it, makeup trends go in and out of style, but you will never hear anyone say that clear, flawless-looking skin is passé. Quality foundation is more likely to match your natural skin tone and improve your skin’s health Have you ever tested a foundation on the back of your hand at the drugstore only to get it home and realize it doesn’t match your complexion at all? Or worse, realize it’s caused a break out? That’s because many widely-distributed brands only come in a few shades, use inexpensive ingredients that oxidize (turn orange) quickly and fillers like talc that can clog pores. But a high quality line likeglō•minerals is made with nourishing ingredients that actually contribute to skin’s health and to the long-lasting wear of foundation.

The Danger of Counterfeit Beauty Products

Counterfeit beauty products are a big business (we are talking billions of dollars!)- and it’s quite possible you have purchased a “fake” without even knowing it. While counterfeiting used to be a problem exclusive to the luxury goods market (fine fragrances, high end skin care) it has now filtered into everyday personal care products like shampoo, makeup and even toothpaste! If you think that you could easily spot a fake, don’t be so sure. These counterfeiters do an excellent job of matching the original package – however, the product inside the bottle or tube might not be what you expected.

Why is this dangerous?
Counterfeit beauty products are manufactured outside of the United States (mostly in the Asia Pacific region) which raises two main issues:

1. These manufactures don’t need to follow US regulations for how products should be made. US companies have to follow processes and procedures to best promote the safety of both the employees and the consumers of the product. When these regulations are not followed, products can end up not looking or smelling the same as the product you are used to and, worse case scenario, these products can be contaminated. There have been reports of toxic chemicals (and even urine!) in some perfumes.
2. The US has lists of ingredients that are acceptable (and unacceptable) for personal care products. Additionally, ingredients and finished products often need to be safety tested before they can be sent to consumers. Not all countries have these standards in place, which can result in the use of less than appropriate (and safe) ingredients. While the ingredient label on the package may look the same as the original, there is no guarantee of what is actually inside.

How do I avoid buying counterfeit?
The best piece of advice is to buy products from a trusted retailer. Most of these counterfeit products live on online auction and trading websites sold by dubious sellers. While you can get a lot of great stuff on eBay I’d be very hesitant about buying beauty products from the seller. You want to make sure you purchase from a reputable retailer and understand where the product is coming from. Also, if a product is priced significantly lower than the market value, it’s almost guaranteed to be counterfeit.
Bottom Line
Counterfeiting is a big problem – it comprises the safety of the consumer and can tarnish the reputation of the actual brand. Remember that if something appears too good to be true than it probably is.